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don't pass the port
the southern city has been saddled with its sinister french connection image for three decades, but kieran falconer finds it has a cool, cultured side too
kieran falconer
the guardian
saturday october 9 2004
the french connection ... marseille's giant marina
france's second city enjoys its "hard man of the south" image, but this belies an elegant, charming centre with good restaurants, interesting museums, a rugged coast and many little beaches. tourism is a recent phenomenon - many marseillais don't believe that it's a viable concern - but over the years little steps have been taken. it began when they turned the fish market into a theatre (first performances stank). then bemused locals saw pleasure boats moor amid yachties in the vieux port. a school of dance followed, and things developed from there. it may be outshone by its glossy neighbours, aix-en-provence and nice, but marseille is more than the birmingham of france and suits those who want a little grit with their pearl. where to stay le petit nice-passédat the corniche mirrors the sea as it snakes out of central marseille. set back from the road, these two greek-style villas are the quietest, with only the noise of the sea crashing against the rocks to disturb your sleep. rooms are airy with frostbite air con - much appreciated in this hot spot - and private-ish bathing is available on the rocks. · anse de maldomé (+491 592592, petitnicepassedat.com) from £135 per double. hotel mercure beauvau city centre yet quiet. rooms are a good size and the recent refurb has freshened things up. a nice modern bar on the first floor overlooks the vieux port. · 4 rue beauvau (+491 549100, mercure.com) doubles from £105. sofitel vieux port trusty, comfortable and just out of the centre. many rooms have terraces with a view of the vieux port. there is another sofitel up the road, the palm beach, which has a huge pool and is surrounded by coves. · 36 boulevard charles livon (0870 609 0964, sofitel.com) doubles from £130. where to eat restaurant le miramar has the best reputation for bouillabaisse in its birthplace and although they charge £30, it is satisfying. after a delicious soup of the stock, you are introduced to your fish (a tad embarrassing) which are cut up and put into the leftover soup. very hearty. don't order a starter.
· 12 quai du port (+491 911040, bouillabaisse.com). tip: you should be suspicious of cheap bouillabaisse because it means frozen fish are used. le petit nice-passédat the best restaurant in marseille. it's not just the two michelin stars, it's the consistent creativity and love of the sea that overwhelms the tastebuds. chef gerard passédat has created several menus from £35 up to £120. lobster in ginger, bass in a beef consommé and cèpe soup, sea bream with essence of celery. · anse de maldomé (+491 592592). les trois forts has yet another spectacular view of the vieux port, which can divert from the pink sea bream and green tomato tartare, pine-nut-encrusted pigeon breast and caramelised white peaches. around £30 for three courses excluding wine. · 36 boulevard charles livon (+491 155 956). tip: in all cases look out for the good local wines, especially the dry white cassis, full red bandol and the ubiquitous côtes de provence rosés. where to drink nobody appears to work in marseille, so every day you'll see locals lounging about in cafes overlooking the vieux port. for evening aperitifs - pastis if you want to fit in - there are two really good bars. the first floor bar of the hotel belle vue - the blue neon sign on the quai du port gives it away - is yellowed and-old fashioned but lively and trendy, while opposite, on the other side of the port, is le bar de la marine (15 quai de rive neuve), which is big on rock and house music but has a large terrace to escape the noise. for more chilling, meander through the streets of le panier, the oldest surviving section of the city, until something grabs your fancy, or something grabs you. shopping la maison du pastis marseille's special gift to the world is pastis, the aniseed flavoured aperitif, which on a hot day is as refreshing as a shower. this shop was opened by a belgian, frédéric bernard, about 18 months ago and he's collected around 65 kinds of pastis and absinthe. his own traditionally made version is excellent. around £8 a bottle.
· 108 quai du port (lamaisondupastis.com). la compagnie de provence marseille has a long history in soap - it had 70 soap factories at one time - and this bright, modern boutique, next to the café cup of tea, has an extensive collection of local smellies. very much back in fashion as they contain natural products. · 1 rue caisserie, le panier. santons arterra every year, families buy one little clay figurine to add to their christmas crib. these handpainted "santons" aren't simply baby jesus and the odd sheep, but a whole party of fishermen, singers, musicians and traditional figures in 18th- and 19th-century costume. most popular are the dancing women from arles - clothed. the santon fair (november 28-december 31) is a big occasion in the city's calendar. · 1a rue du petit puits, le panier. don't miss overlooking the whole of marseille is the church of notre-dame de la garde and sitting at its peak is the gilt statue of our lady commonly known as the la bonne mère. fishermen, fans of olympique de marseille, crooks and saints all say a prayer here for the bonne mère's protection. in a city of views, this also offers the complete view of marseille, but at night it does attract prostitutes and dealers, so be aware. chteau d'if , the island fortress in marseille's harbour, takes 10 minutes by boat (gacm +491 555009, answeb.net/gacm, £6) and is as bare and unwelcoming as it was to thousands of prisoners over the centuries. the setting for alexandre dumas's great novel about edmond dantès, better known as the count of monte cristo. the vielle charité (2 rue de la charité) was an old hospital for beggars, a magnificent grand baroque building which now houses an interesting and quirky museum of temporary exhibitions - aboriginal paintings when i was there - and permanent exhibitions, which include a fantastically colourful room of popular mexican art. nearby marseille has 54km of coast and to its east are the calanques, pretty coves and old fishing villages amid rugged cliffs. the land is garrigue and wild, offering perfect winter walking. there are plenty of little beaches, cassis if you want a party, les goudes if you want mellow, and a good restaurant, l'escale. alternatively you can take a four-hour boat ride (gacm, +491 555009, answeb.net/gacm, £15) from the vieux port with commentary. the captain is very funny, if you're french. way to go getting there: easyjet (08717 5001001, easyjet.com) flies to marseille from £33.63 return. holiday extras (0870 8444186, holidayextras.co.uk) organises airport hotel rooms for early flights, parking and travel insurance. reading: one helluva mess by jean-claude izzo (arcadia books, £10.99); popular detective fiction set in the city. alain delon is currently filming his books in marseille. marseille et les calanques (lonely planet, £10.99) useful if you have french. further information: marseille tourist office (+491 138900, marseille-tourisme.com). maison de la france, 09068 244123 (60p a minute), franceguide.com. country code: 00 33. flight time: london-marseille 2hrs. time difference: +1hr. £1 = 1.40 euros.
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readers’ tips
marseille:
la virgule restaurant
friendly restaurant near the old port with imaginative cooking. three-course menu (27 euros in the evening) offers excellent value for money. we…
posted by philipb
aug 16 2007
marseille:
cours julien
a square on top of a hill full of people, cafés, bookshops and a big fountain. come here to get away from the crowds on the vieux port and see beautiful…
posted by julesinfrance
jul 23 2007
marseille:
chez etienne
restaurant in the centre of "le panier", the oldest quarter of marseille. always packed, this is a restaurant without menus or, perhaps worryingly…
posted by julesinfrance
jul 23 2007
marseille:
taking a train along the côte bleue
take the train from marseille heading west through the coastal villages of niolon, carry le rouet, sausset les pins. the track runs along the
posted by julesinfrance
jul 23 2007
marseille:
la friche de la belle de mai
this was an area of industrial wasteland with some falling down buildings that has been converted into one of the cultural and artistic centres of marseille…
posted by julesinfrance
apr 26 2007
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