marseille - new york times
marseille - new york times
skip to article
get home delivery
log in
register now
home page
my times
today's paper
video
most popular
times topics
travel
all nyt
travel
world
u.s.
n.y. / region
business
technology
science
health
sports
opinion
arts
style
travel
jobs
real estate
autos
search
plan your trip
select a region or country
--------------------
africa
asia
australia and pacific
caribbean and bermuda
central and south america
europe
middle east
north america
united states
--- countries and territories ---
afghanistan
albania
american samoa
andorra
anguilla
antigua and barbuda
argentina
aruba
australia
austria
the bahamas
barbados
belgium
belize
bermuda
bhutan
bolivia
bosnia and herzegovina
botswana
brazil
bulgaria
cambodia
canada
cayman islands
chile
china
colombia
cook islands
costa rica
croatia
cuba
curacao
cyprus
czech republic
denmark
dominica
dominican republic
ecuador
egypt
el salvador
england
estonia
ethiopia
fiji
finland
france
french polynesia
georgia (georgian republic)
germany
gibraltar
greece
greenland
grenada
guadeloupe
guatemala
honduras
hungary
iceland
india
ireland
israel
italy
ivory coast
jamaica
japan
jordan
kazakhstan
kenya
kyrgyzstan
laos
latvia
libya
lithuania
luxembourg
madagascar
malaysia
maldives
mali
martinique
mauritius
mexico
monaco
mongolia
montenegro
morocco
mozambique
myanmar
namibia
nepal
netherlands
new zealand
nicaragua
niger
northern ireland
norway
oman
panama
papua new guinea
peru
philippines
poland
portugal
puerto rico
qatar
romania
russia
rwanda
saba
scotland
senegal
serbia
seychelles
singapore
slovakia
slovenia
south africa
south korea
spain
sri lanka
st. barthelemy
st. kitts and nevis
st. lucia
st. vincent and the grenadines
suriname
sweden
switzerland
taiwan
tanzania
thailand
trinidad and tobago
tunisia
turkey
turks and caicos
uganda
united arab emirates
united states
uruguay
vanuatu
venezuela
vietnam
virgin islands
wales
zimbabwe
select a destination
--------------------
going to
marseille
ed alcock for the new york times
the graffiti-filled walls near the steps leading up to the cours julien section of the city.
sign in to e-mail or save this
print
reprints
by julia chaplin
published: august 14, 2005
why go now marseille is the only city in the south of france where it's possible to dance to live algerian dancehall into the wee hours, snooze in a 1950's utopian housing project of le corbusier and swim among schools of bouillabaisse-pedigreed rockfish in the clear waters of the mediterranean - and to do so while avoiding the summer hordes descending on provence and the riviera.
skip to next paragraph
enlarge this image
the new york times
map of marseille. numbers on the map correspond to numbers in the article.
ed alcock for the new york times
sunbathing at les calanques, a rocky coastal area south of marseille.
france's second largest city, the entry point for immigrants from such varied places as italy, armenia, north africa, the sub-sahara and china, marseille is an eclectic's dream and something of a well-kept secret. that's mainly because most tourists still imagine it as it was: a seedy, drug-riddled underworld with its ancient alleyways strewn with gangsters and garbage. (think of the gritty 1970's film "the french connection," based on a true story about marseille's international heroin ring.) and while unemployment and crime are still looming social ills, now, thanks in part to government reforms and investment, the laid-back, working-class city has parlayed much of its foreboding gritiness into a raw, quaint-free street culture with a new, multiethnic generation of graffiti artists, musicians and filmmakers.where to stay marseille is centered on the vieux port (old port) along with the city's oldest hotel, the grand mercure marseille beauvau vieux port, (1) 4, rue beauvau, (33-4) 91.54.91.00, www.mercure.com, where such arty types as chopin and george sand stayed in the 1800's. doubles start at $179, at $1.24 to the euro. breakfast is $16.in the postwar outskirts is the hôtel le courbusier, (2) (33-4) 91.16.78.00, www.hotellecorbusier.com, in the third floor of the unité d'habitation, le corbusier's experimental concrete housing project. when it was completed in 1952 horrified locals nicknamed it the maison du fada (house of the crazy) because they thought it so ugly. it has the original restaurant and bar and no-frills guest suites with door-free bathrooms and charlotte perrian furniture. elsewhere in this time capsule are cutely naïve details like seashell indentations in the walls, stained-glass sculptures and, on the roof, a wading pool and giant rock forms for sunbathing. double rooms start at $112 for a studio with sea view. breakfast is $10. for a more aristocratic experience the new hôtel bompard, (3) 2, rue des flots bleus, (33-4) 91.99.22.22; www.new-hotel.com/bompard, off a boulevard that winds along the coast, has 49 rooms, most housed in a grand villa with a pool and lush gardens. doubles start at $174. breakfast $14.where to eat clusters of small ethnic restaurants, marked by colorful facades with signs in various languages, line the winding streets. (in one evening i spotted vietnamese, lebanese, moroccan, chinese, swiss, portuguese, italian and ethiopian.) make sure to order a bottle of crisp rosé from the region of nearby aix-en-provence. one afternoon we climbed the stairs from the old port up to le panier, the recently spruced-up ancient quarter dotted with small markets and galleries, and lunched at au lamparo, (4) 4, place de lenche, (33 4) 91.90.90.29, an italian restaurant on a sleepy square. despite the divey, run-down facade, the napoli antipasti (grilled vegetables drizzled with olive oil and fresh cheeses, $12) were palate-blowing. lunch for two with wine, about $35. nearby is pizzaria Étienne, (5) 43, rue lorette (no phone), which opened in 1943 in its now-dilapidated stucco house. locals swear it's the best pizza in the world. it was packed and raucous even at 11 p.m. on a weeknight, the waiters all seemed to have tattoos, and there were old photos of famous footballers covering the walls. it was worth waiting for a table in an awkward line by the bathroom. the pizza ($9), which comes with either cheese or anchovies, ranked high on my best-ever list. (dinner for two with wine was $75; cash only.) up the hill by cours julien, known as the "tagger area" because it's practically wallpapered with bright graffiti, is restaurant du tagine, (6) 5, rue crudère, (33-4) 91.48.08.47, with arabian tiles and with john coltrane lilting off the stereo. the owners, a husband and wife from tunisia, whipped up a delicious "sucre" chicken tagine ($17) stewed with raisins and walnuts in a thick honey broth with couscous on the side. (dinner for two with wine, about $50.) marseille is the birthplace of bouillabaisse (french for "boil down"), and a handful of purist restaurants take the matter very seriously. the thick fisherman's soup, according to michel, the grandson of the original owner of restaurant michel, (7) 6, rue des catalans, (33-4) 91.52.30.63, must contain the original four types of rockfish that live among the crags by the shore here and are hard to catch, which accounts, i guess, for the exorbitant cost. dressed in pressed jeans and a fisherman's cap, michel greets customers at the door of the restaurant, perched on the corniche with a view of the old harbor. (in order not to distract there is no music and the room is well lighted.) the formally dressed waiters present the raw fish on ice and give etiquette tips on consuming the stew. (it's considered déclassé to share the giant portions, so save yourself the disparaging looks from michel and don't even try it.) bouillabaisse for two ($135), grilled calamari appetizer ($25) and a bottle of domaine ott rosé ($74) and a bottle of water came to $234. on the old port, much of which was rebuilt after bombs destroyed many buildings during world war ii, is le crystal, (8) 148, quai du port, (33-4) 91.91.57.96, where members of a burgeoning film industry can be found lunching in the afternoon sun on 1940's red vinyl banquettes shaded by bamboo fronds and potted palms. (lunch for two with wine $45.) what to do during the day the streets are a pop culture aficionado's dream. old colonial buildings with chipped wooden shutters are mixed with storefronts covered with 3-d graffiti murals (the latest trend in tagging here) signs from the 60's and 70's, groovy midcentury high rises and old dive bars with unrenovated interiors that would make trendy boutique hotel designers swoon. (my favorite was ne called le source, in the red light district around the opera, with gold-painted silhouettes of busty women that looked like vintage russ meyer.) friche la belle de mai, (9) 41, rue jobin 13003, (33-4) 95.04.95.04, is a government-sponsored artist squatters' building in a converted tobacco factory by the train tracks 10 minutes by cab from the city center. wander the art-covered corridors - if you want to tag, and evidently many do, you can buy a marker for $3.50 at sound kartel, 2, rue berlioz, (33-4) 91.47.98.49 - and the cavernous exhibition spaces. there's also a nomadic cafe set up in the parking lot on a flatbed truck with tarps and corrugated aluminum siding. for a late afternoon sugar fix, hit plauchut, (10) 168, la canebière, (33-4) 91.48.06.67, a patisserie that opened in 1820, with inlaid ceilings painted with angels, gold vines and clouds. the obscenely decadent tarte au poires bourdalou, a pear tart with a meringue topping, is eight inches high.what to do at night the trendies hang out in the open-air bars on the old port like bar de la marine, (11) 15, quai de rive neuve, (33-4) 91.54.95.42, with a jumped-up d.j. but the cours julien area, anchored by a park with laurel, cypress and olive trees and groups hanging out on benches, is the best sample of marseille's youthful street culture. at le rosly, (12) 47, cours julien, (33-4) 91.42.59.46, sip a pint of beer at a table outside. for live music au café julien, (13) 39, cours julien, (33-4) 91.53.25.89, is where dancehall artists rap to d.j.'s spinning "smells like teen spirit." the pocket-size balthazar, 14 3, place paul cézanne, (33-4) 91.42.59.57, has local and touring acts performing such cross-cultural genres as brazilian reggae and cape verdian ragga. most bars and clubs close at 2 a.m., but there are a handful of after-hours bars including l'art haché, (15) 14, rue de l'olivier, (33-4) 96.12.45.89. marked by a battered metal door, the speakeasy-like basement has lots of chairs, cold beer and an eccentric cast of characters that gets stranger as the night wears on; open midnight to 6 a.m.where to shop the crop of young, local fashion designers and their one-of-a-kind creations can be found at palma, (16) 10, rue corneille; (33-4) 91.33.76.58. the two young designers at pomponette, (17) 2, rue breteuil, (33-4) 91.53.34.26, stitch up women's fashions like tulle prairie skirts and tunics on sewing machines behind the counter. in the souklike african market district l'univers aliemelaire, (18) 36, rue d'aubagne, sells everything from two-foot-high hookah pipes, loose tea and marseille's famous square soap bars.your first visit or your 10th hire a taxi, roll down the windows and breeze along the rocky, galactic-looking coast up the corniche président kennedy (where hitchcock shot many of his famed south of france road scenes). laze away the afternoon at les goudes, (19) a fishing village where a rocky path leads to la baie des singes, les goudes, (33- 4) 91.73.68.87, a family-run restaurant tucked into a jagged cove where groups at long tables on the terrace feast on bouillabaisse ($55) and fresh daurade ($27). afterward dive in the clear mediterranean, sunbathe on the rocks, and watch the fishing boats putt slowly past.how to get there from paris the high-speed t.g.v. covers the 417 miles in only three hours, with stress-free views of provence and the changing terrain ($74 round trip advance purchase; several trains per day). air france runs hourly shuttles from orly and several flights daily from charles de gaulle (each $144 if bought in advance) the least expensive round-trip flight from new york in early september, was on lufthansa out of kennedy international via frankfurt (and back via munich), for $555. getting around the old part of the city, the most interesting, is best seen on foot. but it's hilly with lots of steps, which explains why the locals favor sneakers and flip-flops (high heels are a bad idea). taxis are expensive but recommended late at night when the streets are empty, and in certain neighborhoods, potentially dangerous.
more articles in
travel »
need to know more? 50% off home delivery of the times.
related articlesin transit; scaling new heights in the french alps (december 31, 2006)36 hours; paris (december 24, 2006)in transit; being cold is the hot trend this winter (december 17, 2006)corsica; a rugged land attracts the boldface set (december 10, 2006)
related searchestravel and vacationsfrance
mentioned in this article
provence
|
africa
|
china
|
france
|
italy
book flights
book a hotel
rent a car
book a cruise
book a package
book an activity
flight
hotel
packages
car
cruise
activities
what type of package do you want?
flight and hotelflight, hotel and carhotel and carflight and car
departing from:
depart:
morn.noon.eve.
going to:
return:
morn.noon.eve.
adults
01234
seniors
01234
children
01234
search for packages
going to:
arrive:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
return:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
adults
01234
seniors
01234
children
01234
search for packages
departing from:
depart:
morn.noon.eve.
going to:
return:
morn.noon.eve.
adults
01234
seniors
01234
children
01234
search for packages
search for hotels in:
check-in date:
check-out date:
rooms:
123
adults
1234
children
01234
room 2
adults
1234
children
01234
room 3
adults
1234
children
01234
search for hotels
departing from:
depart:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
going to:
return:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
adults
1234
seniors
01234
children
01234
search for flights
pick-up location:
car class:
no preferenceeconomycompactmidsizestandardfull sizepremiumluxuryconvertiblemini-vansport utility vehicle
pick-up:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
drop-off:
12 am1 am2 am3 am4 am5 am6 am7 am8 am9 am10 am11 am12 noon1 pm2 pm3 pm4 pm5 pm6 pm7 pm8 pm9 pm10 pm11 pm
search for cars
select a top destination:
----------------------------
africa
alaska
asia
bahamas
bermuda
caribbean
europe
hawaii
mediterranean mediterranean - eastern
mediterranean - western
mexico
northern europe
nowhere
panama canal
south america
south pacific
transatlantic
transpacific
united states & canada
us pacific coast
world
departing in:
cruise length:
show all1-2 nights3-5 nights6-9 nights10-14 nights15+ nights
search for cruises
destination:
start date:
end date:
search for activities
travel marketplace
keep exploring. start your vacation experience now at
www.canada.travel
experience seaside elegance at its best.
verobeachhotelandclub.com
nytimes.com/travel
the communal bike craze in paris
also in travel:
where rodeo drive meets newbury street
a european guide for the fall
politics at play on martha's vineyard
al jolson - 1923
buy now
advertisements
inside nytimes.com
arts »
opinion »
the city »
opinion »
magazine »
fashion & style »
when it takes three people to make a duet
frank rich: suicide is not painless
the united nations of brooklyn
will there be room again for jewish delis?
washington feels hollywood’s heat
home
world
u.s.
n.y. / region
business
technology
science
health
sports
opinion
arts
style
travel
jobs
real estate
automobiles
back to top
copyright 2007
the new york times company
privacy policy
search
corrections
rss
first book
help
contact us
work for us
site map
marseille - new york times Précédent 672 Précédent 671 Précédent 670 Précédent 669 Précédent 668 Précédent 667 Précédent 666 Précédent 665 Précédent 664 Précédent 663 Précédent 662 Précédent 661 Précédent 660 Précédent 659 Précédent 658 Précédent 657 Précédent 656 Précédent 655 Précédent 654 Précédent 653 Précédent 652 Précédent 651 Précédent 650 Précédent 649 Précédent 648 Précédent 647 Précédent 646 Précédent 645 Précédent 644 Précédent 643 Suivant 674 Suivant 675 Suivant 676 Suivant 677 Suivant 678 Suivant 679 Suivant 680 Suivant 681 Suivant 682 Suivant 683 Suivant 684 Suivant 685 Suivant 686 Suivant 687 Suivant 688 Suivant 689 Suivant 690 Suivant 691 Suivant 692 Suivant 693 Suivant 694 Suivant 695 Suivant 696 Suivant 697 Suivant 698 Suivant 699 Suivant 700 Suivant 701 Suivant 702 Suivant 703