climbing resume - jean-yves poublan

climbing resume - jean-yves poublan torn hands on the high bar in walla walla college's gym jean-yves poublan born 05/24/1959 occasional climber - started climbing 1975 level 6c on sight, 7a red point (france) bella coola article (in french) photo album 1 photo album 2 (black & white) photo album 3 photo album 4   l'arete des etiolets and le pas de la roche fendue on the right, at the salève climbers off the salève, near geneva, are like little red dots 1000 ft above in the cliffs of les paturages. i was 10 years old, back in 1969, sitting in church looking out the windows watching the climbers, and dreaming.  my mind wandered, enchanted with the freedom and the curiosity of what it must be like up there.  every once in a while i'd skip school with my friends stephane, ivan and paul-louis, and we'd pay a visit to la mer des rochers ("the sea of rocks"), a boulder chaos at the foot of the cliffs. i started bouldering in fontainebleau a few years later.  i did make it back to the salève a couple of times.  stephane and i did l'arrête des etiollets.  stephane's dad forbid us to do la noisette above le pas de la roche fendue (an exposed iv), but somehow we did it anyway. fast... hoping stephane's dad wasn't watching with his binoculars from their house half a mile down. i hung around the salève when i could. i was okay in l'arrête jaune (iv), although i was glad paul-louis led the final chimney. a couple of climbers took me up the dièdre jaune (v).  it was hard and they ended pulling me up.  i did quite a few routes that way. i liked les cordées de la mule (iii), with its impressive jump from the top of the needle across to a ledge. i finally did le balcon (v+) et les paturages (v+), les morgans (v), le bonhomme (v), le dièdre des etiollets (v). and that was it, i had done most of the affordable routes, i knew descents and secret passages and it felt good up there. this is when i started liking the magic of going down the mountain at night just after dusk. le tour du mont blanc   around that time, with some friends from my suburb town near paris, we did a hiking tour of mont blanc via the gr (sentier de grande randonnée). we hiked for several days, sleeping at mountain huts and in light tents. i had borrowed my dad's camera.       thierry in carnage, bas cuvier i kept climbing in fontainebleau, on the dame jeanne and in bas-cuvier. one day, april 27th, 1976, i had gotten a new pair of eb boots. these worked great--i did the marie rose on my first try (6b), which i had never done before.  in july 1976 i went to les ecrins with michel.  we did things like la traversée de la meije and classics in the dibona.  saw marc and his brother gilles. they were on their way to the south face of la meije. eperon des cosmiques in aiguille du midi (chamonix), and eperon sud de la pointe de platé aux fis (td - 600m) in august i went to surgy in l'yonne, a five hour moped ride along the country roads of france. i did the super donjon (6b), the fissure (6b), and other classics. we camped on top of the cliff. in september, i did l'eperon sud de plate near chamonix, with alain. winter 1976/77, i trained quite a bit. did most of the red boulders in bas-cuvier, and some white ones, such as la resistante (6c), la chicorée, le cocktail, la boucherie, la défroquée, la stalingrad, la forge, or la lili (6c).     la madier, dibona went to surgy and saffres, and to the calanques at christmas with alain. met marc again in saffres, made plans for the calanques. april 1977, several classics in en vau with marc. hyper calanque, pilliers gauche et droit passerelle,  eperon américains, doigt de dieu, super sirène. voie de la calanque solo.  stopped by surgy and saussois on the way back to paris. did la super echelle (6b) in saussois, and most of the classics of surgy. climbed in fontainebleau throughout the spring in bas-cuvier and apremont. climbed in freyr--belgium--with the poidevins.   summer 1977. couloir du diable (ecrins), madier and savoyards (dibona). glacier long solo. went to verdon with marc for the first time: la demande, ula, luna-bong, ecureuils (july). and finally, la face ouest (6b) in the salève. voie des trous au bargy. pilier candau à la gandolière in ecrins. back to verdon in august with marc: eperon sublime, voie des enragés (parois du duc), estamporanée.     winter 1977/78. most classics in saussois (l'ange) and surgy. we liked to climb at night, without light. started climbing with thierry bienvenue and jerôme jean-charles. jerôme opened le carnage, i believe on dec 3rd, 1977. lots of bouldering throughout fontainebleau. la guy heran, verdon spring 1978, verdon gorge: guy heran, roumagaoux, luna-bong, pilier du point sublime solo. did a hard boulder problem in bas-cuvier: la clef (6c/7a). finally, l'arc en ciel (6c) in salève, with eddy boucher. summer 1978. several mountaineering classics in les ecrins. dôme de neige des ecrins, arrête de la tour jaune (face sud du rouget), arrête ouest pic nord des cavales, madier again (dibona), face sud des ecrins, pilier ouest du pic maître. face ouest de blaitière (chamonix).     october 1978, with eddy boucher, we hiked across les calanques from marseille to en vau, doing classics along the way: la voie du levant, les futurs croulants, le linceul. at l'abri azema, we met with other climbing buddies, such as bruno. we went in la traversee sans retour, and bruno and eddy started on le bidule. i did not want to go, it looked spooky to me. i went up an easy route to the right and hike to cassis to provision. as it turned out, later on that day they had retreated from le bidule. i guess eddy went back later and did it. pichnibull, escales winter 1978/79. climbed with jacky godoffe, mostly bas-cuvier, 95.2, saffres, fixin. went across la vanoise with mountaineering skis with michel. extensive climbing throughout fontainebleau, and saussois. messed around in tennis shoes, like la stalingrad. verdon (april 79): nécronomicron, eperon sublime, dingo-maniaque, triomphe des roses, solanut, peril rouge, pichnibull, luna-bong. may 79: la fissure in surgy solo. went to caroux et dentelles de montmirail. june 79: face ouest in salève solo. arrête grutter at pelerins (chamonix). summer 1979. some mountaineering routes in les ecrins. col des ecrins, roche faurio, pic coolidge, gioberney,   fall of 1979, i went to live in the pacific northwest (oregon and washington). climbed in twin captains, beacon rock, smith rock, leavenworth, index, squamish. prussik peak, enchantment lakes, alpine lakes wilderness, north cascades. outer space at snow creek wall with roy jensen. north-east buttress mount goode near lake chelan... solo. the buttress is 2800 ft long easy climb. on the way down on the south east side of the mountain, i bivouac'ed near a lake called dead man lake i believe. a snow route on mount stuart. roy, in outer space dead man lake, cascades summer 1980 - trip to bella coola. flew to ape lake, climbed mt jacobsen. wrote article for alpinisme et randonée which got published. summer 1981 - climbed at tahquitz and suicide rocks, in idyllwild. keeler needle on mount whitney. then yosemite and tuelomne meadows. salathé wall with ken nash. keeler needle, mt whitney keeler needle, mt whitney salathe wall, yosemite fall 1981 - climbed in the calanques and buoux with ken. 1983-88 - smith rock, another trip to yosemite. a one week xmas trip with yanne merrand in the red rocks of las vegas, were we climbed long routes. liberty crack at liberty bell, with larry. red rocks, las vegas yanne, in las vegas 88-2000 - lived in paris, mougins, and aix-en-provence. often repeated the jocker (7a) in bas cuvier. climbed most/all routes on the viaduc des fauvettes. route in tenailles de montbrison with jean. les gradins dauphinois at tête colombe face se with michel. les elfes et ranxerox at tête d'aval with marc. hung around les goudes, orpierre, le pouit, ceuse, ombleze, buoux, la sainte victoire, russan, claret, vallon sourn... fall 2001 - a guy abert route in devenson with jean and thierry (6c+). the route is in l'eissadon, 4 pitches. jean in mateorite, verdon   climbing log 2002 - this was a good year in the 6b range. mostly in buoux, russan, the calanques, ceuse, st victoire, and vallon sourn. highlights were rolling stones (6b+ russan), les passagers du vent (6b monaco), la mafia (6c st jeannet - 200m), mattéorite (6b/7b verdon - 300m), a tout coeur (6a verdon - 200m), tamanrasset (6b+ on sight, ste victoire), le père noël est une ordure (6c buoux), stravanganza (6c mont faron), les beaux quartiers (6b aiguillette du lauzet - 300m), zaghreb (6c on sight ceuse), association de bienfaiteurs (6a les gillardes - 250m), ticket danger (6b verdon - 200m), rivière d'argent (6b verdon - 200m), le choix de sophie (6c buoux).     tete de chien, over monaco climbing log 2003 - this year started quite well with le vieil homme est amer (7a) in buoux, and also courage fuyons (7a). a fun route was les hommes volants (la candelle, calanques), with gregoire. then i started having problems with my elbow tendinitis and had to slow down.           copyright © 2005 jean-yves poublan. all rights reserved.              

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